I have in my hands a jubilee edition of a newspaper. I examine it for a long time and do not lose hold of it, as if I am holding a relic. It is called 1876 – the Novo Selo Uprising with a subtitle crucifix, emanation, hecatomb. It was issued by Apriltsi municipality and the occasion which brought it to existence is more than clear. The question for me however is how to bring the world to see this incredibly beautiful place.

For several years Apriltsi has been within the so-called Balkania, a tourist region, comprised of two municipalities – Troyan and Teteven. Our idea is to join the efforts of everyone who has to do with tourism here. So that we can be stronger and more efficient with a view to our ultimate goal - promotion of the region, Darya Zarichinova, who is from Apriltsi, tells me. To that effect, with her husband Niko they have found an association called Tourclub Remark. The municipal administration, local hotel owners and the Executive Agency for National Tourist Advertising and Information, which is under the auspices of the Ministry of Economy, take part in the work of the association.

The road fortuitously takes me just above the town, where the Holy Trinity monastery lies huddled. It used to be a monastery for girls. There are no visitors. Silence has settled under the century-old trees, as have the memories of glorious but tragic days. The monastery was built around 1839 with the efforts of the local people. Thirty six years later they took an active part in the preparations for the April Uprising. The monastery is known as Novoselski – after the name of the settlement, which today is one of the four town districts. But in 1876 it was the centre of the biggest uprising in North Bulgaria. Here, the independent Novoselska Republic was proclaimed, which existed in the first 9 days of May that year…

In the monastery the nuns baked bread for the rebels, sewed clothes, helped them anyway they could, Evgeny Zdravkov recollects. He and his mother, who used to be a nun, now take care of the holy place. The people who did that before them were massacred by the bashi-bazouk hordes, which broke through the siege at one of the two passages to Novo Selo – Gradnishki Passage. The holiness of the place did not prevent the conquerors from burning down, plundering and demolishing everything in their way…

Up there, on the very road, at the ridge of Ostrets peak there are remnants of a Roman fortress. It resembles a saddle and it used to be part of the chain of defense citadels during the Roman Empire. When in danger, they used to light bonfires. This was a signal that the Dacians were crossing the Danube and that the land needed protection. The mayor Ivan Pirov told me this. We are walking slowly with him, entering Central Balkan National Park. It holds the hopes for development of tourism in the region. And for fighting unemployment. A project on the construction of a golf course has been awaiting its realization. There are two offers, one of which envisages the construction of a hotel by the golf course. It sounds intriguing, if not for the discouraging dragging on, the battle of interests and the unclear outcome. And the stalling much to the disadvantage of everyone.

Going back, on the way down through the virgin nature there is a waterfall one has to see if they are beauty lovers. The river is called Lyava Vidima and reminds me of the other one, which encircles Apriltsi. They call it Zla (Evil)… “It comes right from the Balkan, from the Sprinkler. Here the denivelation is great and when the river rises, it carries enormous quantities of wood, stones, rocks… If it gets mad, it becomes a disaster. That is why our forefathers gave it this name”. I listen to Minko Yonkov with pleasure. He is an eloquent host. His hotel with the romantic name Juniper is just by the river. The district bears the same name – Zla Reka. My interlocutor is very optimistic in terms of the future development of the town in the beautiful valley. I am convinced, he says, that in 2–3 years’ time 70% of the people here will make a living by rural tourism. I also intent to make contact with sea-side tourist agents, so that foreigners visiting the Black Sea can come here to the mountain and enjoy our resort, our cuisine, history and way of living...

The wood in the fire cracks and I am thinking of the horse races in Apriltsi. The races always take place on Todorovden (Todor’s Day) and are part of the charm of this place. There is something endearing in the persistence to hold them despite the unfavorable time – at the end of winter, in mud, drizzly weather and cold. But they are part of the traditions, preserved and followed by the local people. The population is about 4000 people, approximately 400 of them living in the three small villages in the municipality – Velchovo, Scandaloto and Drashkova Polyana.

In Drashkova Polyana I fell under the spell of pottery, a traditional craft in this region. In his home, also a private hotel, Encho Gankovski demonstrates his craftsmanship. In his hands the clay quickly turns into a beautiful pitcher. It somehow looks easy, natural and captivating. Velichka, his wife, carefully and quietly tells me how from a professional photographer he turned into a devoted champion of the idea to turn the family house into a tourist attraction. Other people around have similar ambitions. They have succeeded, I am thinking while looking at the pottery, photos, paintings and the interior.

They have a professional school of tourism in Apriltsi – a source of qualified personnel. Good and attractive hotels. Rich cultural and historical heritage. Beautiful nature. Preserved traditions. Just go and see for yourselves.

Roumen Stoichkov