Bulgarian fashion seems to have always followed in the steps of West European fashion, yet its multifaceted development in the last 15 years appears to have given a strong impetus to our native talents. You are the greatest fashion expert in Bulgaria. What do you think about the achievements of our native designers and is Bulgarian fashion comparable to world fashions?
I would very much like to say that Bulgaria ranks among the European, even world leaders in clothes design and style formation, yet the truth is quite different. For a number of reasons we are far behind and aside from the biggest achievements in this sphere. At the same time we cannot deny the dynamics and improvement of quality in textiles and fashion design. Alongside Evgenia Zhivkova, Zhana Zhekova, Virginia Zdravkova, Fani Papadopoulou, Maria Nedkova, Natali Genova, Milka Alexandrova-Bouchi, Maria Micheva and others, we must acknowledge the work of stylists, who popularised Bulgaria overseas, like Vesselin Yordanov, Irina Simeonova, Aneta Genova, Emilian Sabev, Livia Stoyanova, Assen Samouilov. Also the young artists Desislava Stoycheva, Maria Doychinova, Stanislav Petrov, who are studying the art of fashion design in Vienna and Rome. (The last three are scholarship students of “From Needle to Thread” Consultancy House).

I feel profoundly optimistic about the new generations of designers, who are not burdened with the totalitarian past and do not pay tribute to prejudice and ideology. The future is theirs. They will conquer the world peaks of fashion. Yet we should not forget that besides human and creative talent, it is also necessary to provide a stable and modern economic and technological basis, efficient management and original and productive public relations, a media policy and publicity.

Fashion also has a mass aspect. Many people living and working abroad appreciate the Bulgarian ready-to-wear clothes and come shopping here. What is the level of Bulgarian fashion houses and do you think they have prospects for development after joining the European Union?
The European and world markets have set certain standards with regard to clothing and accessories. In order to satisfy them, 99% of our fashion houses must be reorganised and modernised. Serious business plans, investments, a credit policy and clarity about the so-called “quotas” are needed in order to reach the level and meet the requirements of the fashion industry and trade in the European Union. If this change does not come about, most of our fashion houses are doomed to failure, because the time of “garage boutiques” will be over forever.

It is good that the Bulgarian textile and clothing sector has made an indisputable advance. The output of textiles and textile items for 2002 rose by 109.7% compared to 2001, and the production of clothing, including leather articles by 113%. A special report of the Association of Light Industry Enterprises to the European organisation for textiles and clothing pointed out that in 2002 a total of 155,943 people were employed in the textile and clothing sector, which is 14% up on the previous year and accounts for the greatest share (29%) of employment in the manufacturing industry. Among the biggest investors are the Italian Miroglio Group (in textiles) and Rollman, Germany (in the tailoring industry).

You are one of the founders of the Fashion Academy and chairperson of its journalist jury, which confers the most prestigious award in this field – “The Golden Needle”. What has the academy achieved up to now and what are its prospects for development?
When a discussion arises about the Academy of Fashion, it is compulsory to mention at least one more name – that of Donka Ganeva, as 11 years ago we decided together to establish this institution, give “The Golden Needle” award, invite our fellow journalists to join the Academy and the journalist jury. We have accomplished a lot, but the most important thing is that we managed to retain our impartiality in the selection of the best fashion designers, photographers, makers-up, organisers of fashion shows, experimenters, etc. I feel satisfied that “The Golden Needle” is the most coveted and prestigious award for fashion design in Bulgaria and this prize is really useful for our fashion designers. It encourages them, stimulates them, and makes them happy.

Are there recipes for good taste and a proper way of getting dressed, and do they necessarily require a lot of money?
It is hard to come up with a universal recipe for good taste and style of dressing, because individuals vary. You cannot be elegant if you have not achieved harmony between your personality and the garment you have chosen, if this garment does not fit you or is not beautiful, if it is not made of high-quality materials, and if it is not new (in terms of shape and colour) – if it does not correspond to the spirit of the time. Here we should recall Oscar Wilde’s words from “The Perfect Gentleman” – “Fashionable is what you wear. Old-fashioned is what the others wear.” Money does matter, just like in the other spheres of everyday life, but it is not everything. There is nothing more ridiculous than the caricature of a rich man wearing kitsch and even ugly clothes, for deficiency of good taste and style.

Do you think we need a well-grounded, and I would say at the risk of sounding far-fetched, scientific fashion criticism?
With a few exceptions, nowadays it is hyperbolic to speak about professional fashion criticism. Round the world there are but a few names of great fashion critics. In order to create a normal criticism in this country, there must be a normal subject and object of its activity, i.e. plentiful interesting, original and innovative fashion designers and phenomena liable to in-depth interpretation.

The common mistake that most fashion journalists make is that they remain at the level of superficial coverage of fashion events (light and brief reports, interviews, remarks and occasionally – comments). There is a lack of analyses and reviews concerning events outside the professional fashion design, publications about the actual phenomena in fashion – street fashion, subculture fashion, tattoo fashion, piercing fashion, etc. To make a highly professional fashion critic, you must have a solid background in aesthetics, history of culture and art, follow the relevant sources closely and regularly, have fast reflexes and a keen sense of the past and present.

What are your impressions of the Bulgarian young people?
I love them, I admire them and support them with all my heart. I myself, as their teacher, learn a lot during the lectures, seminars and exams. They have no alternative in terms of spiritual bravery, sincerity and fresh, unaffected thinking. I believe in their future and think that our society and country are greatly indebted to them. Hopefully, this huge debt to the emotional and intellectual potential of Bulgaria will be at least partially paid in the next few years.

From dawn to dusk you are in the company of beautiful women, but the woman of your life is just one. Aren’t your wife and son jealous for the relatively short time you spare for them?
I can boast of a wonderful family. My wife and son are tolerant to my creative and public occupations. I cherish infinite love for them and am very grateful for their precious help. The time we spend together is fully satisfying – emotions, games, recreation, laughter and sensible communication.

There is a great deal of courteousness in fashion, often associated with quite a bit of snobbishness. What is the key to combining the values of Lyubomir Soykov’s personality and the fashion expert? Do you need to make your own inner compromises to maintain a balance?
I sincerely hope to have preserved my naturalness and unaffectedness. Whether I have succeeded – you should ask the others.

I have said many times that I am not a fashion freak. I do not wear extravagant clothes and I look on snobbishness and courteousness with some condescension. I feel most forgiving to vanity, because it is a very human quality. If you are not vain, then in a way you are not critical of your own self – your spiritual make-up, appearance and character.

The life of celebrities is followed closely. How did you get accustomed to that and which personal spaces would you not let anyone in?
I have not been thinking about my popularity and whether I have been watched, since this is not particularly important for me. Personally I seek to exert a positive effect – to form an attitude to beauty, beautiful conduct, beautiful communication, and do good things like charitable campaigns, auctions and donations. As for my personal space, I guess that nobody but my closest friends and relatives have the right to enter there. I would not initiate a stranger into my memories, my sorrows or my aspirations. They are my own, not up for sale or display.

Since we started with a nice anniversary and a balance, I cannot help ending the interview with the question: How about the future? What are your personal and professional plans and is a lifetime long enough to carry them out?
I may be wrong, but I profoundly believe that from now on I will write my most mature books and will make my most exciting films. I think that the past 50 years were just a rehearsal for the next 50 years (or as many as God gives me). I have drawn up very serious creative and scientific plans and the best of it all is that now I know how to execute them with minimal mistakes and inaccuracies.

Professionally, I am going to keep researching and extending the knowledge connected with anthropology, man’s spiritual and behavioural sides, subculture and fashion, publicity and the theory and practice of popularity. I do not hide the fact that I am ambitious, but now I have already curbed most of my dreams. I do not mean it in a bad way, but rather as a civilised taming of the raging elements inside me. In order to succeed, one should be able to control one’s ambitions.

Neli Kostadinova