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Written by Ãåîðãè Õðèñòîâ   

The Deified Mountain

Far from the hustle and bustle of busy life there is a world of harmony and peace, without airplanes flying over, whirring motorcars and crowds of people. Frozen in eternity, close to the clouds, the upper parts of the mountains preserve a fragment from the Garden of Eden, as it is described in the Holy Scriptures. In the Pirin Mountain this sense of purity and perfection sets in your soul and inspires you for a better way of living. Crystal clean air, beautiful scenery, the freedom and expanse of the blue sky, and countless opportunities for wild adventure expect everyone who goes to the incredible Pirin Mountain.

In antiquity Pirin was known under different names. Thracians called it Orbelus (Snow Mountain). The Slavs named it after their supreme deity Perun. Most beautiful is the northern part of the mountain, with tall peaks and numerous lakes. This is the domain of the most delicate alpine flower, the edelweiss, of wild goats and imperial eagles, of many legends, born and narrated by the fireside by tourists and shepherds.

One of the reasons why Pirin is so well loved and visited is the lakes –

about 120 are the pearl eyes of the mountain

To provide protection for the unique diversity of landscape forms, plant and animal species, a large part of Pirin is a national park, which is on the list of the UNESCO Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage since 1983.

The animal life of the Pirin Mountain is very diverse. It is inhabited by rare representatives of the reptiles, dozens of insect species, more than 220 bird species, widespread mammals include wild goats, bears, wild boars, roes, wolves, foxes, hares and martens.

Several are the entrances to the divine Pirin

Those who like comfort and conveniences of civilization will be best advised to choose as base camp Bansko, which offers a wide choice of hotels and guest houses. From the town they can go to different spots in the mountain and make one-day hikes.

For those who want real unity with nature and seek adventure, the best approach to the mountain is the Kresna defile. It takes a lot of hiking, but it’s worth it.

You take the train to Kresna, put on your rucksack and set off for the high parts of Pirin. Check the colour of the blazing to Sinanitsa Chalet and trust your sense of orientation. After a 6-hour climbing you will reach Sinanishko Lake. Further on you are in the lost paradise – peaks’ reflections in the lakes, direct contact with the purest energy in the world.

Sinanitsa Chalet is perched on the threshold of the circus, just above Sinanishko Lake, in its northern part. It is a convenient place and starting point for interesting and popular routes in the Pirin Mountain and for spending a couple of days by the lake. Or you simply pitch your tent in one of the bivouacs around and sit in the silence of the rocks to absorb the incredible beauty. If you are not tired from the climb, set off for Sinanitsa peak and you will not regret it. In clear weather you can see the whole mountain from there, and the feeling that you are close to the gods is indescribable.

On the next day, in 4 hours you can reach Vihren Chalet, from where you can conquer the highest peak of the Pirin Mountain, Mt. Vihren (2914 m). Don’t miss the chance to go along the Karst edge Koncheto. At places it is only 50 cm wide, but it gives a magnificent view onto the deep circus Banski dry valley, Razlog valley, the Rhodopes and the Rila Mountains. You will need at least 5 hours for the peak and Koncheto, going and return.

Below Vihren Chalet there is a unique 1300-years-old “tree of wisdom”, Baikushev’s white fir. Sitting by its roots, one feels an influx of fresh strength and is ready to climb the mountain and surpass his own capabilities.

On the next day you are in for an exhaustive 7-hour hike to the Tevnoto Lake hut. The trails are properly blazed, and you need the red band in-between two white bands. Climbing up you will successively get a view of the Banderishki Lakes, following the red blaze. The most difficult part of the route is the climbing of the Bashliiska, Vinarska and Mozgovishka Gates. Then you descend to Tevnoto Lake and in another 2 hours you arrive at the hut. The route is hard but it is worth every effort because you will get in the heart of the mountain, and after the fatiguing hike you will be welcomed at the hut by friendly hosts, who will treat you to delicious hot soup and teach you how do dance horo – a “must” before a good night’s sleep.

On the next day you can go to Pirin Chalet, again following the red blaze, and thence to the town of Melnik and the Sandanski balneo-resort. But I would advise you to go back up to Mozgovishka Gate, with a view on the Prevalski and Chairski Lakes, and take up the blue blaze to Popovo Well. After you pass the ridge circus, watch out for a side-trail to Vasilashki Lakes. You turn right and follow the yellow blaze. The climb to Djangal Gate is hard but then follows a descent to Popovo Lake and you reach Bezbog Chalet. The route from Tevnoto Lake to Bezbog Lake is 4 hours and if you are not tired of the ravishing beauty of the divine Pirin, this hike will leave a lifetime memory. Look out for wild goats on the rocky peaks, smile at the unique plants and open your hearts like the sky.

On the next day you will ride on a chair lift, which will take you to Gotse Delchev Chalet, and thence by asphalt road you will reach Dobrinishte. There you can crown your hiking trip in the pool of the mineral baths, full of hot curative water. Then pleasant family hotels are awaiting you, where you can recall the conveniences of civilization, before you go back to the urbanistic world.

Skiing in Pirin

The lack of snow due to the global warming affected the Bulgarian as well as the Alpine ski resorts, but so far the snow machines save the situation. Bansko holds the first place in Bulgaria with 75 “cannons” for its 65-kilometre tracks.

The opportunities for skiing are unlimited and I am sure the season will be at its best, and this year the resort offers new entertainments for its guests. Snowboarders can try their skills at the rock-gardens of the newly built Fun Park. Skaters can go to the skating rink. The night offers, besides the usual entertainments, skiing down the lighted track of Banderishka Poliana and the 8-km ski-track to Bansko.

The tracks in the area of Bezbog Chalet are suitable for both advanced skiers and beginners. Gotse Delchev Chalet (1412 m), where the new chair lift to the ski-track starts, is only 17 km away from Bansko. You reach Dobrinishte and then by a winding road you go up in the mountain.

  • Bezbog Chalet – Tuzlata – Gotse Delchev Chalet – the longest track in Bulgaria (5000-5500 m) with elevation difference of 700 m. Highest point at 2250 m, lowest point at 1550 m. The average gradient is about 22%. The two end points are connected by a two-chair lift of capacity 500 persons per hour and an intermediary station in the middle. There are also a timing station, ski school for children, beginners and advanced.
  • Bezbog Chalet – Govedarnika – Gotse Delchev Chalet – 3600 m, elevation difference of 950 m. Highest point at 2500 m, lowest point at 1550 m. The average gradient is 25%.
  • For slalom fans: Govedarnika – Gotse Delchev Chalet. The track is 700 m long, with elevation difference of 150 m. Highest point at 1700 m, lowest point at 1550 m. The average gradient is 22%.
  • Govedarnika – Gotse Delchev Chalet is for giant slalom. It is 1550 m long, with elevation difference of 460 m. Highest point at 2010 m, lowest point at 1550 m. The average gradient is 30%.
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