| The Tropics of Central Bulgaria |
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| Written by Ãåîðãè Õðèñòîâ | |
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At the Krushunski Waterfall, tucked away in the embrace of the Devetashko Plateau, you can savour the spirit of the cascades of Iguacu Falls in South America. In the heart of Bulgaria, you seem to find yourself in the tropical world. The colour of the water reminds you of the rain forests in Singapore. The peculiar vegetation resembles a jungle and everyone is struck by the waterfall. Those places in nature where rivers plunge into a precipice are magical and irresistible. Purity, light and gratitude are gushing out of them. They come into being and vanish into thin air in tune with the rhythms of the Earth. In spring the purifying waters of melting snow flow down the mountainsides. The rivers swell, brimming over with life. No one can help sampling the delight of plummeting water. The chanting of the natural element purges and reassures. Waterfalls are a source of legends about magic, miraculous transformations and religious beliefs. The shamans worship such spots, as there appears a mysterious rainbow out of sunbeams and spray mingling together. The population of the Balkan Range has a belief that if you walk beneath a waterfall, you will end up in another dimension. In the reality of dragons and fairy tale heroes, who whisper to you that the rivers are streams of light, girdling the planet. Pure energy, which once allowed into your soul, will revitalise you and purge you of negativism. This is what the waterfall near the village of Krushuna is like. Whenever my memories and photographs take me back there, I can think of nothing else but legends and fairy realms of elves. The Krushunski Waterfalls are fit for a decor of the fantasy saga Lord of the Rings. For any film letting the imagination run wild. You would not believe it. But first let me tell you how to get there. As this is just the beginning of the adventure. The village of Krushuna is situated in the foothills of the Balkan Range. Thence open up the vast tracts of the Danube Plain and the nearest larger town in Levsky. The town of Lovech is 34 km away. Follow the map closely, because there are no signposts of the place. The village lies on the edge of the Devetashko Plateau. Driving from Lovech to Levsky, pass by the road juncture to the village of Devetaky. Turn right when you reach the village of Alexandrovo. Several kilometers down the road, the village of Krushuna will pop up before your eyes. The village nestles among the hillocks of the plateau and only to the north can you see a wide open space in the direction of the lowlands along Osam River. Here lies the Waterfall, one of the most beautiful caves in Bulgaria. A mere 150-meter stretch inside the cave is accessible, solely for speleologists. The interior contains original galleries and a puzzling maze, there are restraining bars, but tourists can only access the hallway. The water springing from the Waterfall Cave winds its way through the rocks and cascades from singular 20-meter tall formations into the gorgeous Krushunski Waterfall. The water colour is intensely turquoise. The terrain of Krushuna and the adjacent southern surroundings consist of limestone and Karst formations. Most of the land is strewn with travertine formations, where there used to be quarries. That is why the place is so impressive. In the distant past most of the waterfall was inside a cave, which later collapsed. As a result, a natural wonder was fashioned – the waterfall of Maarata River in the vicinity of Krushuna, and now we have the chance to indulge in the delights and magic of this incomparable place. Along eco-paths traced with bridges and stairs, you squeeze your way through the spray of the cascade. There are plenty of places that stop you in your tracks and strike you dumb with awe. The water jets trickle in thousands of droplets through unique bars. Further downstream the river flows through countless shoots, small drainage basins, ledges, hoof-shaped rocks and unique tropical vegetation. It will take you a whole day to view every detail of the magnificent eco-path running along the waterfall. The good news is that you can put up for the night at Krushuna Inn or in rooms in some of the village houses. Thus on the next day you can go hiking again and again, since this magnificent scenery quenches your thirst for exquisiteness and beauty. The vista of the Krushunski Waterfalls inspires not only poets, but also painters. Here we all bow to the perfection and rationality of nature. Besides this lavish aquatic splendour, the area also has a rich ancient history. In the 5 c. BC these lands were inhabited by the Thracian tribe Usdinezi. One of the most precious treasures was discovered in the vicinity – the Letnishko Treasure. The Roman period is attested to by the ruins of a castle south of the village. In the Middle Ages the area was a philosophical center for rock-cave monks – Isichasts. The surroundings of Krushuna offer a host of distractions and lure numerous explorers and pioneers. The tourist infrastructure is underdeveloped or absent altogether. You should not expect asphalt alleys and telephone booths, but if you are fond of virgin nature, untouched by mass tourism, then this is just the place for you. Moreover, danger seekers may test the limits of their endurance paddling down the canyon of Osam River right after the Devetashka Cave. Whitewater rafting is popular in summertime when the river is swollen. Yet it is not recommendable for those who are unskilled in paddling. Although the terrain is not mountainous, the river is still dangerous due to the rapids, whirlpools, over five-meter depths and felled trees. During the rest of the year, excellent conditions for rowing, swimming and fishing are available at Pustiyata Dam. It is located at a unique spot of natural beauty in close proximity to an ancient Roman settlement. Numerous other reasons will take you back to the tropics of Central Bulgaria. Here they are: Urushka Maara Cave – accessible through a cart track, punctuated by shrubs and grass, which ultimately narrows to a path. The journey takes one hour. Exploring it claimed the lives of three frogmen, and ever since an annual spelunkers’ camp has been set up here. Boninska Cave – accessible along a cart track, which is in good condition. The cave has the largest underground lake, measuring 800 meters in length. The journey takes three hours. Descent is impossible without special equipment and torches. The Defile – accessible through a run-down road connecting the villages of Krushuna and Karpachevo. A scenic almost impassable canyon. Ideal for adventure and thrill seekers. The journey takes about three hours. The Vrannitsa Precipice – situated between the villages of Karpachevo and Gorsko Slivovo. Flights of stairs lead down to the bottom of the precipice. The Devetashka Cave – after the bridge of Osam River on the way to Devetaky, go downstream along the river on the right bank. The path has tourist markings but unfortunately merges with the surroundings in some places. The duration of a visit to the cave exceeds one hour. The cave has the largest hallway in Europe. In the past it was used as a storage place by the military. It is the biggest of the 60 caves in the region of the Devetashko Plateau. Fascinating is also the entrance domed hall, and the cascade of lakes and waterfalls in the interior unfold the whole spendour of the underground nature. The Pustiyata Dam – located between the town of Letnitsa and the village of Gorno Slivovo and accessible through a rough asphalt road. Ideal for sports fishing, rowing and swimming in unspoiled surroundings. |
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Astonishingly, Bulgaria proves to have gathered miniatures of most landmarks of the elements of Mother Nature from various continents. However, here man and nature are close at hand. You do not need to travel “a hundred days on camelback” to see the sights. On the territory of our country, God carved the Belogradchik Rocks, which represent a mini Grand Canyon, the Seven Rila Lakes, resembling an area in Tibet, the channels among the islands in the Danube are a fit match of the Amazon jungles, and the silver sands around Sinemorets seem to take you to the Indian State of Goa. The lake of Srebarna makes you feel as if you were in Africa, the dunes along the Black Sea coast remind of the desert, paddling down Struma River in the Kresna Gorge is like whitewater rafting down a roaring Siberian river, and the Konche ridge in Pirin Mountain looks like Sangre de Cristo in Colorado. The fortress Baba Vida is reminiscent of Central Europe. There are countryside regions that remind you of Italy, stretches of the Black Sea Coast bearing a resemblance to Greece, and quaint mountainous settlements like Mugla stirring up associations with Switzerland. The list is endless. But now let us touch on a fairly obscure, yet noteworthy natural wonder situated at the foot of the Balkan Range.